Friday, December 22, 2006

High IQ Link To Being Vegetarian

Food for thought. See you in the New Year!

Souffled Macaroni Cheese & Adventures With Eggs

Another Delia Smith creation. I just can't bring myself to type out the whole set of ingredients and instructions on this cold, frosty, slightly hungover morning, so click here for the info.

The French have a term, mise en place, which essentially means preparing everything before you start cooking- this is the kind of recipe where that's sound advice, as there's a bit of grating and measuring to do, and everything gets thrown together fairly quickly.

The prep time is longer than the cooking time, but boy this dish is good. It was delicious, with a beautifully rich sauce- there's no way I'll be using a pre-made cheese sauce again. Despite my best efforts to sabotage it. I used eggs that had been skulking around the kitchen for a while. Note to self: use fresh eggs if you're going to separate them!

Unexpectedly, this dish is a bit of a milestone for me. It was the first time I'd made a cheese sauce from scratch. It was also the first time I'd tasted and cooked with Dolcelatte. I also had a go at separating eggs for the first time. It always looked like a tricky task- I wanted to use the shells to siphon off the egg whites, but I suspected it'd be quicker & easier to just use my hands, which didn't really appeal.

So, I cracked an egg, ready to catch the yolk, and the yolk just dripped out of the shell, along with the white. No problemo, I thought, I'll just bite the bullet and use my hands for the last egg. I thought it was my suspect technique, so cracked the (last) egg into my hands, expecting a lovely, wobbly yolk to rest in my palm, while the whites oozed down into the bowl. Back to reality, and again the white & yolk were interwoven, and the whole lot dribbled through my fingers. I nearly threw the eggs away, but persevered as I'd got all the other ingredients ready.
No doubt it would have been fluffier and lighter if I'd have used fresh, properly separated eggs, but it turned out brilliantly- good enough to serve to guests, and get the nod of approval.

Another first was trying out a new (to me) sort of pasta- I used cellentani instead of macaroni. They're basically little corkscrew shapes, perfect for holding sauce- I've since realised that they're great with tomato-based sauces too- they pick up any excess sauce- so they taste good, and help with the washing up too.

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

More Pub Grub...

Haven't done much cooking lately as I've been out catching up with old friends, and eating out. A big "thanks" to The Bridge Inn, especially, in Shoreham. Another example of (a) how commercial food is inferior to home cooking and (b) pub chains are terrible.
Not only was that the most overpriced, cold food I've ever wasted money on, it was the surliest service, too. £8 for a few florets of cold broccoli and potato, with a little side dish of...more cold broccoli scraps. Not sure how you'd describe the tableware it was served on either- it wasn't a plate, but more like a gravy boat without a handle- about the size of 3 small ramekins.

Just to add a bit of balance, I should tell you that I had a fantastic meal last Friday, not for the first time, at The Fox Inn at Shipley, just outside of Wolverhampton. The Fox isn't affiliated to a chain....

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Happy Christmas! (Unless You're In A Chain Pub)

Handily, I'm not preparing any Christmas food, so I'm just on drinking duties. Hence no posts since last week. Thankfully, I've made some observations about English chain-pub food. No surprises, to be fair. JD Wetherspoon continues to underwhelm.
Their food & drink is cheap, but you still never feel like you're getting value for money, because it's so poor. I had a Mediterranean Pasta Bake- the menu says:

Penne pasta in a chunky tomato, basil & oregano sauce, with mixed peppers, onions, aubergines and courgettes, topped with mozzarella cheese.

Sounds great, but what I was served was floppy, overdone penne, in a thin, watery tomato sauce. I'm not convinced there was any aubergine at all, but there were definitely slivers of shrunken, slimy peppers and little, shrivelled, tasteless bits of courgette. There was some green stuff, which by a process of deduction was the herbs, which tasted of nothing.

That's OK compared to my fellow reveller Rob, who had a mixed grill. I've seen less carbon in a box of pencils- how they had the nerve to serve up such burnt, carcinogen-packed cuts is beyond me. To be fair, Rob told them (an hour later, when they decided they could be bothered to take away the plates). The chef, and the rest of the staff, thought it was hilarious that someone had complained about his food. We knew this because they were laughing about it 30 feet in front of us. Especially funny that he never got an apology or discount, though.

Well, it's widely documented that Wetherspoons doesn't give a damn about the quality of the food or drink, and it's "only" a cheap pub, so I wasn't expecting too much, which still doesn't make it OK. And they didn't have any limes for their G&T's.

At the weekend, we also went to my local Ember Inns pub. I've had many meals there, some pretty good, most decidedly average. Like Wetherspoons, Ember claim to cater for real ale drinkers. Lo and behold, they've just got one real ale on (3.9%) for the whole of the festive season. So, we decided to have the most festive drink there is, instead. Mulled wine, of course- it was advertised on all the walls & menus. Inevitably, they had run out, on a quiet Sunday afternoon. So, no mulled wine, dodgy microwaved grub, but they'd managed to play Cliff Richard down our lug-holes all afternoon. British pub chains clearly can't (be bothered) to organise a piss-up in a brewery, so it's going to be three cheers for the shareholders, rather than the customers.
And I haven't even started yet on the lack of Bathams in Birmingham now...

Friday, December 08, 2006

Lentil Stew

That veg chilli has left me craving more lentils. This is a similar dish, but more rustic, rather than hot.

1 onion
2 cloves garlic
carrot
leek
1/4 Savoy cabbage (shredded)
lentils
2 pints veg stock
broccoli
1 tomato
mushrooms

Fry the onion, mushrooms & garlic. Add the carrot, leek, cabbage, lentils, & the stock.
Boil 10 mins, & simmer for another 10 mins. Add the broccoli, and simmer another 10 mins.
Add the chopped tomato, and season with black pepper & grated Parmesan.
I used shittake mushrooms, just because I picked them up on the cheap yesterday.
You can serve that with pretty much anything- tagliatelle, rice, potatoes, short pasta, etc.

PS- I came to cook this the other day, only to find out I'd run out of lentils- oops!!
Handily, I'd got some "country vegetable mixture" in the store-cupboard- barley, lentils, etc- which was handy, else I'd have been dining on porridge...

Wednesday, December 06, 2006

Vegetarian Chilli

I got this recipe off Anna on the Jamie Oliver forums. In her own words:

Gently fry off an onion and several cloves of garlic, then add your lentils. Stir to coat with the oil and incorporate the onion and garlic. Add a chopped carrot, a couple of chopped courgettes, some jalapeños, chilli powder, cumin seed and ground coriander. You could add Cajun spice mix, too. Add 2 pints of stock and a very very generous squirt (about half a tube) tomato puree. Simmer gently for about half an hour to forty minutes until the lentils are cooked. Stir in some chopped tomatoes and coriander, and serve. Nice as a filling for baked potatoes with cheese and sour cream.

I followed the recipe but used one courgette & one leek; no Cajun spice mix or coriander, and used 4 dried chillis instead of the jalapeños. Next time I'll go for six chillis, as some of their heat is absorbed by the cooking process. It's a great dish for winter, and it's the first time I've had a baked potato for about 18 months. How can anyone not like lentils? That earthy, wholemeal, nutty taste is superb.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

Pasta With Chickpeas In Tomato Sauce

Saturday means it's quite common for me to cook when I'm half-cut, so it tends to be straightforward (yet tasty, hopefully!). I'd been drinking with my regular food-taster Rob all afternoon, and this turned out a treat.

Ingredients: Penne pasta, tinned tomatoes, 2 cloves chopped garlic, 2 dried & crushed chillis, grated Cheddar, tinned chickpeas, freshly milled black pepper, and 3 sprigs chopped rosemary.

I've written previously that tinned pulses are inferior to the real deal, but I've used a tin of chickpeas here, because (a) they were skulking around in my pantry, and (b) I hadn't planned ahead.

Method: Note that imbibing half a gallon of Stella Artois beforehand is optional.
Boil the pasta, and very gently heat the garlic & chilli flakes in a small amount of oil. When infused (after a few minutes) add the drained chickpeas and the tomatoes.
While cooking the sauce, add the rosemary (but not the stalks) and season with black pepper.
Finally, stir in the grated Cheddar, mix in the cooked & drained pasta, and serve in warm bowls.

Well, Rob approved, but to be fair he was probably in need of any sustenance by the time I started cooking- I know I was.

Pasta With Cheese Sauce, Walnuts, & Mushrooms

I'd got half a pot of Sainsbury's three-cheese sauce leftover from the gratin I made recently, so I rustled up a quick & easy meal.

Ingredients: Penne pasta, cheese sauce, walnuts, Portobello mushrooms, cayenne pepper, freshly-grated nutmeg, freshly-milled black pepper, freshly-grated Parmesan.

Method: Boil pasta, & gently heat the cheese sauce (or indeed make a sauce from scratch- recipe in the gratin link). Roast the shelled walnuts on a baking tray (6 minutes, 120 degrees c).
Gently fry the chopped mushrooms in a separate frying pan (just a little oil).
Mix the sauce with the cooked pasta, mushrooms, and walnuts, and season with the nutmeg and cayenne pepper. I love them both, so used plenty. Add some black pepper, and Parmesan.
Deeeelicious, and only takes about 15 mins, including preparation.

Thursday, November 30, 2006

Seasonal Ingredients - December

Given the perilous state of the climate, there's quite a bit of fluidity between seasonal ingredients nowadays. I see that they're still harvesting raspberries (which are usually available July-October in England). As there have been no frosts so far this year, I guess it's the same for plenty of other fruit and veg.

Anyway, here's what a paltry (yet delicious) selection of fruit to look out for at the moment:
Pomegranate, pears, & clementines

And December veg:
Celery, red cabbage, swede, celeriac, turnips, sprouts, pumpkin, beetroot, parsnips, & salsify (claim a spotter's badge if you see any of that!).

Cauliflower & Broccoli Gratin With Blue Cheese

I rustled this up on Monday night - another tried & tested Delia Smith recipe, which is very simple to make, and tastes fantastic. No cooking last night, as I was at Molineux. This serves 4.
Before we crack on, a few things . I'd say the salt is optional- it's fairly salty anyway, so leave it out if you're trying to cut down- it does nothing in terms of cooking science in this dish.
Also, the blue-cheese sauce is a straightforward bechamel sauce with added cheese. It's simple to make, but I was all out of flour, and used a pre-made sauce. I also substituted Gorgonzola for Roquefort, and instead of parsley, used basil. All good.

Ingredients:

10 oz (275 g) cauliflower florets
10 oz (275 g) broccoli florets
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced into 8 through the root
10 fl oz (275 ml) brown basmati rice
1 pint (570 ml) boiling vegetable stock
1 rounded teaspoon salt

For the blue cheese sauce:
4 oz (110 g) Roquefort, cubed
1 pint (570 ml) milk
1½ oz (40 g) butter
1½ oz (40 g) plain flour
pinch of cayenne pepper
a little freshly grated nutmeg
salt and freshly milled black pepper

For the topping: 1 oz (25 g) Parmesan, finely grated
½ oz (10 g) fresh breadcrumbs
1 level tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley


Method:

Get a frying pan (with a lid) onto a medium heat, and cook the onions gently - about 4 mins.
Stir in the rice - don't bother to wash it- that only applies to old-school rice production techniques. The excess starch is already removed when being processed. Mix the rice around, so its slightly coated in oil, and add the hot stock & salt. Stir once, cover with the lid, and cook for 45 mins on lowest heat. Don't interfere with the rice again 'til it's cooked! If you stir it, you'll make it sticky, releasing starch from the broken grains. And that's a no-no.

If you're not cutting corners like I did, make the sauce.
Put the milk, butter, flour & cayenne pepper in a saucepan, whisk it over a medium heat, until the sauce is thick, smooth & glossy. Cook for another 5 mins on lowest heat.
Whisk in the cheese, & season with salt & pepper and nutmeg.

Meanwhile....pre-heat the grill to its highest setting. Then steam the cauliflower for 4 mins, and add the broccoli, and steam them both for another 4 mins.

Put the rice in an ovenproof baking dish, then put the broccoli & cauliflower on top, pour over the sauce, and top with the parsley & breadcrumbs. Stick it under the grill for about 3 mins.

That's a great, simple dish. Once the rice is cooking, you've got plenty of time to prep everything else, or go off and have a few drinks, of course.

Monday, November 27, 2006

Pasta With Red Pesto Sauce

Last night, realising I didn't have the ingredients to make a fresh pesto sauce (the old-school pesto alla genovese), I used a jar of Sainsbury's own-brand red pesto. Are you noticing a tendency towards Italian-inspired food yet?!

The method & ingredients are pretty much identical to this, minus the shallots, and I used grated Cheddar cheese instead of Parmesan. I also threw in approx 8 fresh basil leaves, each torn in half.

So, although the supermarket-brand red pesto is good, clearly I'm going to have to have a stab at a home-made version- there's a recipe here, which I'll try when I get hold of some more fresh basil.

Basil Faulty

I've already mentioned that during winter, I'm trying to use rosemary instead of basil, as it seems to last a little longer in the cold reaches of north west Europe.
Having said that, I couldn't help myself, and bought a new potted basil plant on Saturday.
I was going to (at last!) make my own pesto sauce last night, but then I realised I'd used all my pine nuts up last week for a beer-snack. And lo-and-behold, I came to water it this morning, and the basil plant's already on its last legs, after two days.
I'm pretty sure it's the cool temperature, because during summer they can last for a month or two on my kitchen windowsill. If anyone's got any green-fingered tips, do let me know!

Last Week's Food- A Retrospective

Wow, has it really been a week since I last posted? That's flown by. I've just been trying to remember what I rustled up last week, and there's not been a great deal of interesting cooking.

Last Monday & Tuesday, I had a some boiled veg - swede, carrot, broccoli, potatoes with some onions fried in oil with a splash of cider vinegar & balsamic vinegar. I tried to pick up a nut roast mixture at short notice, but couldn't get any- pull your finger out, Sainsbury!
Instead, I bought some Cauldron mushroom burgers, which were pretty bland and sloppy. Having said that, I quite like some of their other products.
Anyway, it's become apparent that I need to start making my own veggie gravy. I used to use Bisto, which was just salty and grim. I've been using Sainsbury's own-brand gravy, which isn't much better, and it seems to taste worse than I remember it.
I've got a Sarah Brown recipe for gravy, which I'll try out sometime soon- it's got to be an improvement.

Also made a few omlettes last week, and on Saturday made a dish of pasta & chickpeas in a tomato sauce.

Ingredients: tin of chopped tomatoes, cooked chickpeas, penne pasta, garlic clove, onion, tahini, balsamic vinegar, cider vinegar, veg stock (Marigold), chopped mushrooms, Gorgonzola, chilli flakes.

Method: Chop onion, and fry for 5 mins. Add the chopped garlic, and a splash of the vinegars, and the mushrooms, and fry 'til it's looking good.
Throw in the cooked chickpeas and tomatoes, add a pinch of stock powder, and the chilli flakes (I used 2 dried chillis, but whatever suits you), and stir in the tahini (approx 2 tablespoons).
Then, cook the pasta and add some cubed Gorgonzola to the sauce while it's cooking- approx 100g. Serve in a hot bowl- delicious- quite a high fat content with the tahini, but it adds a tasty, nutty depth to the sauce.

Monday, November 20, 2006

Fingers On The Pulses- Can The Cans

Being veggie, I eat a fair few beans & pulses. For well over a decade, I've been happy to use the tinned variety. This year, I've started using the dried sort, and I assure you, the taste and texture is a million times better. Just think about fresh mushrooms, say, compared to tinned. They're in a different league. I still have a few tinned beans lurking in the cupboard for emergencies, but I know how slimy and tasteless they'll be, compared to the real deal. And, inevitably, you're paying a lot more for the tinned variety, because it's "convenient". Filling a bowl or pot with water, and next day starting to cook 60 minutes before I want to eat, is no trouble- and I'm incurably lazy.

Hereford Hop & Blacksticks Blue

Over the weekend, I had some great cheese, which more than made up for my recent, underwhelming dabbling in the world of hummus.
Firstly, Hereford Hop, made in...you guessed it...Worcester, by Malvern Cheesewrights, who are just 30 miles down the road from me. It's quite creamy, with a very subtle hint of citrus, and it's coated in beer hops, which are lovely (shock, horror that I'd say that!).
I also had a generous helping of the incredible Lancashire cheese, Blacksticks Blue, made by Butler's. This is a great cheese. With all those rich blue veins, you'd expect it to be quite strong like Roquefort, but it's a beautiful, soft, subtle cheese- buttery and tangy- similar to Cashel Blue or Shropshire Blue- but I have to say, it's the best British or Irish blue cheese I've tried, so far.

Acceptable Hummus

Having tried the kidney bean hummus recently, I thought I'd have another go at chick pea hummus- another Delia recipe.

Ingredients:
4 oz (110 g) dried chickpeas
juice 2 lemons
2 fat cloves garlic (crushed)
4 tablespoons olive oil
5 fl oz (150 ml) tahina paste
cayenne pepper
salt

To garnish:
olive oil
chopped parsley
cayenne pepper

Method: Cook chick peas & reserve the cooking liquid. Add to a blender, along with the lemon juice, garlic, oil & 5 fl oz of the cooking liquid. Whilst the blender's doing its magic, add the tahina paste, then season with cayenne pepper & salt.
When serving, drizzle with more olive oil.

I didn't add any parsley, for lo! the cupboard was bare, but I served it with toasted bread slices and katamala olives.
Well, it's better than any supermarket-brand hummus I've ever tried, especially Somerfield's, which was rank. The Somerfield version had the consistency of pickled ear-wax, but was tasteless, which was probably for the better, with hindsight.
Despite that, I'd made some from a recipe in The Times, about five years ago, and that was delicious. I seem to recall it had a lot more garlic in- this new version was fairly bland. Still, now I know how to make it next time. Onwards & upwards!

Disappointing Hummus

Middle-eastern cuisine has lots of bean purees, but in the UK you only usually get (chick pea-based) hummus.
I tried a simple recipe a few weeks ago, by Brian Turner, for kidney bean hummus.

Ingredients: 110g/4oz kidney beans, 2 garlic cloves (roughly chopped), 2 tbsp olive oil. Plus, to serve, 2 slices of white bread & 2 tbsp olive oil.

Method: 1. Place the kidney beans, garlic and olive oil into a food processor and blend to a smooth paste.
2. Drizzle the bread slices with the olive oil.
3. Heat a griddle pan until hot and toast the bread for two minutes on each side until crisp and golden.
4. Transfer the hummus to a serving bowl and serve the toasts alongside.

I used brown bread, as I'm really not keen on white. It was OK, but I wouldn't bother making it again, at least not without modifying it. I think it needed some more oil mixed into it, and maybe some chilli and citrus juice, to jazz it up. Still, I managed to finish it off.

Friday, November 17, 2006

Eggsellent...

Couldn't really be bothered with much cooking last night, so just had an omlette.

To liven it up a bit, I used these ingredients as well as the 3 (free-range) eggs:

1 Portobello mushroom (sliced), Parmesan (grated), rosemary (1 sprig, finely chopped), salt & pepper.

I left the egg mixture to sit for 30 mins after adding the rosemary and salt & pepper, to let the flavours absorb.
Then I sweated the mushrooms for 20 mins in a little oil in a frying pan, and just threw these into the omlette, when I was folding it, and just added the Parmesan once I'd plated the omlette. Nice & simple.

Thursday, November 16, 2006

Hey Pesto!

Had a great meal last night, and only took 20 minutes- managed most of it during half-time in the Holland-England friendly.

Ingredients: Pasta, 1 red onion (roughly chopped), 1 Portobello mushroom (roughly chopped), 1 clove garlic (cut into slivers), 1 chilli (de-seeded & finely chopped), cider vinegar, balsamic vinegar, 1/2 pot of sun-dried tomato pesto, fresh rosemary (chopped), black pepper (freshly crushed) and Parmesan (finely grated).

I used Sacla sun-dried tomato pesto- because I'd already got half a pot in the fridge. I used fusilli pasta, but any short pasta's fine. Portobello mushrooms are the big, flat kind- any sort's OK, but you might need to increase the quantity. And I used a whole stalk's worth of rosemary leaves. The Italians substitute rosemary for basil during the winter months, I'm told.
I'm crushing my black peppercorns by hand in a pestle & mortar. I know it sounds crazy- it's not me being pretentious, but I broke my mill a few months ago, and haven't got round to getting a new one.

Method: Boil pasta. Then take a frying pan- heat, then add oil, and when that's hot, fry the red onion moderately for a few minutes.
Add the mushrooms and continue frying for another minute or so, then add the garlic & chilli.
Add a splash of cider vinegar & balsamic vinegar, and also the rosemary, and then gently fry until all the liquid's absorbed.
Add the pesto to a clean saucepan, add the boiled pasta, plus the fried ingredients, and stir together with a fork, and warm through.
Serve on a warm plate & season with the pepper, adding the Parmesan.

Easy, and I think that's great- the red onion and the vinegars combine really well together. White onion wouldn't be quite as tasty.

Putting Off The Washing Up

Nifty- I'm avoiding doing the washing up by sitting here blogging.
I've finally succumbed to a friend's advice and switched my chosen brand of washing-up liquid. Fairy is out, and Ecover is in. It works just as well, and doesn't have that nasty petrochemical taint that I'd become accustomed to. Less grim chemicals in my kitchen can only be a good thing.

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Beans On Toast

Last night, I scaled new gastronomic heights and had baked beans on toast. Heinz-style. It's OK as a quick snack, but industrial-style baked beans are pretty grim. The ghastly sugar and salt levels, the sickly orange colour...
You can normally mask their foulness with curry powder and brown sauce (more dodgy sweetness), but I'm going to have to try to cook some from scratch.
All the recipes I can find call for molasses and/or additional sugar- lunacy!
One day I intend to come up with a recipe for nice baked beans, minus sweetness, and then I'll become a millionaire, selling it locally, then internationally.

Monday, November 13, 2006

Vegetable Curry

I'm lucky enough to live on the edge of the famous Balti Triangle, hence there's some great curry houses down the road. Unfortunately, it also means that I'm exposed to freak weather, as south Birmingham is now a tornado alley. The problem is, of course, that trying to imitate British Indian restaurant food is a dark alchemy. If you've got the patience, and the ability to consume vast amounts of oil without any negative side effects, then have a look at this excellent forum.

Anyway, here's a simple, tasty curry idea. Chilis are in season, so it's good to use 'em.

Ingredients: 2 cloves garlic (cut into slivers), 2 fresh chilis, 1 onion, celery, lentils, chestnut mushrooms, curry powder, tin of tomatoes (400g), fresh coriander.


The curry powder I'm currently using is Kohinoor Madras, which is pretty well-rounded. I'm under the impression that it doesn't matter at all which brand or blend you use, as long as it's not out-of-date, it's the cooking technique that's important. Ideally I'd have used 2 onions, but it's Sunday night, and life's too short...

Method: Boil potatoes & lentils in separate pans. Roughly chop the onion, celery & mushrooms. Slice the garlic, and de-seed and chop the chilis. I find that if you finely chop anything for a curry, there's a danger of it burning. Try not to rub your eyes or touch your sensitive bits at this point.

In a clean pan, heat plenty of oil (about 3 tbsps). Get the oil hot, add the onions, and fry for a few minutes. Turn the heat down to gentle, add the chilis, garlic, and curry powder. I use about 7 teaspoons of powder, but use however little or much you dare. Don't let the powder & oil mixture burn or dry. Keep stirring, and add a splash of water (or stock) if required. You want a consistency similar to brown sauce.

Add the celery, then the mushrooms, then the lentils & potatoes, then add the tomatoes, and cook. When ready to serve, add lots of chopped coriander. I normally have a pre-made naan bread with it- 2 mins under a grill- easy.

I'd cook it for at least 30 mins, but if I've got time, I'll cook it for at least an hour. The longer the spices are fused for, the better the taste, especially with ingredients like potatoes & lentils, which absorb flavour. Leaving the flavours to develop overnight is ideal. For the same reason, that's why I rarely taste curry when I'm cooking it- use sight and smell instead.

Friday, November 10, 2006

Celery & Porcini Risotto

I've still got lots of celery left from the cauliflower soup recipe, so tonight I'm going to do a River Cafe Cook Book Green risotto.

Ingredients (serves 6): inner white hearts of 3 heads celery & their leaves, 1.5 litres chicken stock, salt & pepper, 125g unsalted butter, 1 medium red onion, 150g dried porcini, 3 garlic cloves, 400g carnaroli rice, 3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, 120g Parmesan.


I'm replacing the chicken stock with veg stock (made with Marigold bouillon powder), red onion with white onion, and I'm using arborio instead of carnaroli rice.

Method: Soak porcini in 500ml warm water (30 mins).
Gently cook the celery (but not the leaves) & onion in half the butter, in a large saucepan.
Drain porcini, reserve soaking liquid, roughly chop. Add to the pan, along with the chopped garlic.
Cook for 5 mins, & season with salt & pepper.
Add rice, and stir in to coat each grain with the buttery veg.
Add a ladle of the porcini liquid, allow to reduce, then add the rest, stirring continuously.
Once absorbed, add a ladle of the hot stock, then once absorbed, add another ladle, and so on. Should be done after 15 mins.
Add the rest of the butter, the celery leaves (finely chopped), & the parsley.
Check seasoning, and serve with freshly-grated Parmesan.

Heavens, that sounds good.

Edit: I didn't actually get round to cooking this in the end, I re-did the penne with wild mushrooms & creme fraiche. Seems churlish to remove the recipe, though.
I ended up using the celery with some toasted walnuts (baked for 6 mins, 180 degrees C) and apple to go with some brie and Stilton that a guest brought round. And a few glasses of red wine. Good call, Rob!

Plonkers

Interesting article in The Times today. Wine competitions are a cynical way of shifting unsold stocks of 2nd-rate wines, whilst truly great wineries wouldn't allow themselves to be smeared by such industry dupes. I'm sure there are exceptions to every rule, but it's not hugely surprising. Looking at the stats in the article, you've got a better than 50% chance of winning an award if you enter a competition.

Penne With Wild Mushrooms & Creme Fraiche

Another day, another Delia recipe. This one, though, has got porcini mushrooms in. I haven't tried it before, but porcinis tend to guarantee that it'll be a tasty dish. And, handily, I've got most of the ingredients to hand now.

Ingredients: (serves 2) 250g penne rigate, 225g mixed fresh mushrooms, 5g dried porcini mushrooms, 125ml creme fraiche, 1.5 tablespoons milk, 25g butter, 2 shallots, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, plus freshly-grated nutmeg, Parmesan, and salt & pepper (all according to taste).

I'm going to use half an onion, instead of shallots. For the short pasta, I'm going to use fusilli instead of penne. Penne's great for absorbing lots of sauce, but I don't think there'll be too much in this dish. I've got some oyster mushrooms, and they'll do fine, instead of a mixture.

Method: Soak porcini in the warmed milk in a small bowl for 30 mins.
In a frying pan, melt butter, and gently cook shallots for 5 mins.
Strain the porcini, reserving the soaking milk (use a sieve with a sheet of kitchen roll in it). Squeeze 'em dry, chop finely, and add to pan.
Add the fresh mushrooms, & balsamic vinegar.
Season with the salt, pepper & nutmeg.
Stir, and leave to cook gently (uncovered): 30-40 mins, 'til the liquid has evaporated.
Cook the pasta 15 mins before the mushrooms are ready.
Two mins before the pasta's done, add the creme fraiche and milk to the mushrooms- warm through.
Drain the pasta, add to the mushrooms, and heat for another minute.
Serve on warm plates, sprinkled with Parmesan.

Update: I made this last night. I only had 125g of oyster mushrooms, but it turned out brilliantly. The porcini just infuse everything with a deep, rich mushroom taste.
In fact, as I need to use up my pot of creme fraiche, I suspect I'll try this again at the weekend, with some roasted nuts added.

Cauliflower Soup -Second Helping

Result! Last night I reheated the 2nd batch of cauli soup, added the missing creme fraiche, and replaced the cheddar with Roquefort. What a difference! The Roquefort worked excellently because it's got so much more taste than the cheddar, and the creme fraiche added a more substantial texture.
I heated half a ciabatta loaf to go with it, and that was great comfort food.
Plus it also means I've now got some spare, rich, blue cheese, to have with some weekend wine.

Thursday, November 09, 2006

The Roquefort Files

I reckon I can improve on yesterday's cauliflower soup, so I've gone out and bought some creme fraiche and Roquefort, plus a ciabatta loaf- I'll keep you posted later, when I polish off the rest.
The Roquefort looks great- should work a treat. It's sheep's cheese, treated with a mould called penicillium roqueforti. It dates back to at least 79AD, and was renowned throughout medieval Europe.
The mould metabalises the milk-fat, breaking up 10-25%. That releases short-chain fatty acids, which give the flavour, and the smell comes from breaking down the longer chains, which are converted into alcohols & methyl ketones.
Why wasn't chemistry this interesting at school?!

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Cauliflower Soup

Last night I made a variation of Delia Smith's Cauliflower & Roquefort soup, what with it being dark & wintry outside.

Ingredients: 1 cauliflower, 2oz Roquefort, 2 bay leaves, 1oz butter, 1 onion, 2 sticks celery, 1 leek, 4oz potato, 2 tablespoons creme fraiche, 1 tablespoon fresh chives, salt & pepper.

I used Cheddar instead of Roquefort, and didn't have any creme fraiche, so I just omitted it, and used grated nutmeg instead of the chives. I know the creme fraiche would have made the soup creamier, but it wasn't going to radically alter the taste. The nutmeg worked well (as ever with cheesy food) in place of the chives. These quantities serve 4-6.

Method: Chop all the veg. Make the stock- simmer (20 mins with lid) all the trimmings from the cauli (not the actual florets) with a little salt & the bay leaves.

Meanwhile, gently melt the butter, adding the onion, celery, leek & potato, in another pan, and cover & allow to sweat for 15 mins.

Back to the stock pan- transfer the bay leaves to the veg pan (I dropped mine on the floor when trying to do that, so they ended up in the bin!). Discard all the trimmings, and add the stock to the veg. Add the cauliflower florets too, and simmer gently 25 mins, without the lid now. Throw out the bay leaves, if they made it this far, and blend the soup with a blender.

Return the blended soup to the pan, stir in the cheese & creme fraiche, and stir gently 'til melted. Add chives & seasoning, & serve in hot bowls.

I'd give the version I made last night 8/10. I've made it once before, but with a different stock. Instead of using cauli trimmings, I binned them and just made a quick veg stock with Marigold Swiss Vegetable Bouillon powder, which I actually preferred- it gave the soup an extra level of taste- 10/10. Either way, simple and tasty!

Pasta With Pesto Sauce

I've been living on this recipe for much of the week, because it's so damned nice and simple to do.

Ingredients: Pasta, Pesto sauce, mushrooms, shallots, garlic, chili, walnuts, Parmesan, black pepper.

I've used short pasta (wholewheat fusilli) but you can use any variety. The Pesto is from a jar (but I'm going to make my own someday).
I've used chestnut mushrooms as they're in season, and have more taste than "ordinary" button mushrooms.
The chili peppers are dried, but fresh are even better (de-seed and remove the pith because the heat would be too intense for this dish).
I've bought the walnuts dried and de-shelled.

Method: Start boiling the pasta and pre-heat the oven to 180 degrees C.
Peel & finely chop the shallots & garlic, & crumble the dried chilli. Chop the mushrooms into halves.

Gently fry the shallots for a few minutes in a smallish amount of oil, then throw in the mushrooms and fry for a short while- just ensure the shallots aren't overdone. Add the garlic & chili and fry a little longer- about a minute more.
Meanwhile, put the walnuts on a baking tray and bake for 6 mins.
Drain the pasta, add the pesto sauce to a large cooking pan- then mix in the pasta and the fried ingredients.
Take the walnuts out the oven, halve, and add to the pasta mix.
Serve with the Parmesan (you can grate it or slice it - I use a veg peeler to get a thin slice), and season with black pepper.

It'll take about 15 minutes to cook (including preparation).
Measurements are free & easy, depending on your own taste. This sort of dish doesn't require the sort of accuracy you'd need if you were baking a cake, say.
Cooking for one, I used half a jar of pesto, one clove garlic, one chili, about 7 walnuts, and about 60g of mushrooms (about half a supermarket packet).
Sometimes, I've doubled the amount of garlic & chili here, but I do enjoy both of them.
I've also tried adding a little splash of cider vinegar when frying the shallots, which adds another layer of flavour, as does squeezing a little fresh lime or lemon juice over the dish.
I've served this to friends and they've loved it.

Taking The Pee

I was surprised to see on MythBusters last night that drugs tests can be skewed by eating poppy seeds. Just one or two bagels or slices of bread containing the seeds is enough to make you test positive for opiates for 48 hours.
There's more info at Snopes, the urban legend site.

Seasonal Ingredients - November

This year I've been trying to buy fresh food from my local farm shop, rather than at supermarkets, as it's fresher, it's cheaper, and is better for local, small-scale producers. No more of that nasty, fibrous, tasteless veg that's been flown around the globe and driven across Britain before hitting the shelves.

Some fruit to look out for this month:
Pears, cranberries, dates, grapes, passion fruit, persimmon, pomegranate, pineapple, walnuts, chestnuts, and quinces.

And November veg:
Beetroot, cabbage, celeriac, kale, Jerusalem artichoke, leeks, late wild mushrooms, parsnips, potatoes (Desirée and King Edward), French and Spanish onions, pumpkin and squash, shallots, Swede, turnip, watercress, and radicchio.

A Brief History Of My Tastebuds - Part 2

At university and beyond, I lapsed into just cooking pretty much the same meal everyday for about five years. And that was penne pasta, with a tin of chopped plum tomatoes, a tin of red kidney beans, and a rather dismal effort at adding flavour. That meant either using a cube of Vegetable Oxo (oh dear, not great- lots of chemicals and a synthetic taste) or else adding pre-ground curry powder - I don't think I was about to give Madhur Jaffrey a run for her money.
Thankfully I bought some cookery books and started to learn basic techniques about different cooking styles and how to mix & match ingredients and styles. I've been doing that for about six years now, and I'm still learning foodie stuff everyday. Here you'll find recipies I'm trying out every so often, along with other nosh-related opinions.

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

A Brief History Of My Tastebuds - Part 1

For over three decades I've been stuffing my face with all sorts of food, roughly half of it rubbish. Growing up as a kid, I was raised on a diet that paid homage to post-war austerity (think bland meat & two veg), and then later, ready-meals. At the same time, I took a fanatical interest in sweets and crisps, washed down with sugar-based drinks, and almost daily trips to McDonalds when I was a teenager.

I joined my school's rugby team, and consequently started doing lots of regular exercise, whilst eating a lot less processed food. I lost several stone and then dated a vegetarian girl, which quickly led me to becoming veggie, too. Soon I was eating delicious, fresh food. Happy times!